What We Know
It’s a dial refresh, but it’s a welcome one for the Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix, which gets a bit of new life with a new grey two-tone dial for the stainless steel case. For the self-winding version, this is now another option for the most affordable watch Vacheron makes, which previously had a blue dial and a monochrome grey. But alongside that new self-winding, there’s now a new complete calendar model to complement it.
Both watches have a 40mm steel case, with 9.6mm thickness for the self-winding version and 11.6mm for the complete calendar. On the former, there’s a gradient opaline center, a gradient darker grey sunburst exterior, and a snailed peripheral minute track. On the complete calendar, this display is reversed, plus a darker, nearly black, external date track for the pointer date. The moon phase has gone monochrome as well. Both watches have applied white gold numerals and indices, which (like the hands) are filled with Super-LumiNova. The watches have display casebacks and a 30m water resistance.
The Fiftysix Self-Winding uses the caliber 1326, produced by Richemont’s Manufacture Horlogère Valfleurier and finished, assembled, and regulated by Vacheron Constantin. That movement has 48 hours of power reserve. The complete calendar movement, with automatic winding as well, is the 2460 QCL/1. It’s actually a higher-grade movement, so it has a Geneva Seal mark for quality, but it only has 40 hours of power reserve. Both run at 4Hz.
The pricing stays the same for the Self-Winding model, at $14,300. The Complete Calendar in steel was briefly off the market, but is back now at $33,900. Neither are limited editions.
What We Think
The siren song of grey watches comes baked in to the injection they give you when you start working at Hodinkee. Suddenly, you’re drawn to that perfect space between black and white—at least that’s what everyone says about us when it comes to dials. All joking aside, I do think it’s an attractive dial variation compared to other options. I always thought the blue was a bit too bold and sporty for a watch that leans more dressy (though it still straddles the line). The grey dial works well on steel while toning down the loudness a bit.
The Basics
Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Fiftysix Self-Winding and Fiftysix Complete Calendar
Reference Number: 4600E/000A-H177; 4000E/000A-H178
Diameter: 40mm (both)
Thickness: 9.6mm (Self-winding); 11.6mm (Complete Calendar)
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: Two-toned grey double gradient dial
Indexes: Applied 18k gold
Lume: Hour markers and hour and minute hands highlighted with blue SuperLuminova
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Anthracite nubuck calfskin leather with calfskin lining and ecru stitching; Stainless-steel folding clasp
The Movement
Caliber: 1326 (Self-winding); 2460 QCL/1 (Complete Calendar)
Functions: Hours, minutes, center seconds, date (Self-winding); Hours, minutes, center seconds, day, month, peripheral date (Complete Calendar)
Power Reserve: 48 hours (Self-winding); 40 hours (Complete Calendar)
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4Hz
Jewels: 25 (Self-winding); 27 (Complete Calendar)
Chronometer Certified: No
Pricing & Availability
Price: $14,300 (Self-winding); $33,900 (Complete Calendar)
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No
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